blog

Wanted: Tech Advisor

Fri, 06 Aug 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Gougeon Brothers Inc., the manufacturer of WEST SYSTEM® and PRO SET® Epoxy, has a second full-time job opening for a Technical Advisor.

Job Description
The Technical Advisor fields customer questions about the product and offers advice on proper use, construction methods, product properties, etc. The Technical Advisor also participates in problem solving, product design and development, and product testing. The Technical Advisor may also be asked to write and review articles related to the product.

Qualifications
•    Bachelors degree in science or engineering; preferably in composites, plastics or related field.
•    Work experience in any engineering field; or work experience in composites, plastics or other marine related fields will also be considered.
•    Communication skills, both written and verbal, are essential.

Relocation to Bay City, Michigan is required.

A Little About Us
Gougeon Brothers, Inc. is a family friendly, team oriented work environment. The company is employee-owned and offers competitive wages. Our exceptional benefit package includes: ESOP, 401(k), HRA, health, dental, disability and life insurance, paid vacation, PTO and holidays and tuition reimbursement. Gougeon Brothers, Inc. is an equal opportunity employer. Visit our Job Postings page for additional career opportunities with GBI.

Send your resume and cover letter to gmh@gougeon.com or Human Resources, Gougeon Brothers Inc, 100 Patterson Ave, Bay City, MI, 48708.

WoodenBoat Show

Wed, 23 Jun 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Come see us at the WoodenBoat Show in Mystic, CT June 25-27. We'll be at booth 56A in the big tent, and we'll also be helping Family Build Weekend participants construct 8-10 Sassafras 16 canoes with our friends from Chesapeake Light Craft.

We're building a Sassafras

Tue, 08 Jun 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Recently, our blog featured the Chesapeake Light Craft Sassafras 16 canoe. We began building one of our own last week, and came a long way on it in three very short days thanks to CLC's exclusive LapStitch™ construction scheme. CLC's LapStitch is essentially a stitch-and-glue construction method devised especially for lapstrake designs. With these CLC kits you can quickly build a round-bottomed, traditional looking lapstrake boat without a using molds or complex rolling bevels. The result is a stiff, strong, leakproof and beautiful boat.

DAY 1: Julie and I stich the bulkheads to the bottom with copper wire. The 2 bulkheads in the center are temporary.

Day 1: Stitching the pre-drilled LapStitch lapstrakes into place with help from
tech advisor Bruce Niederer.

DAY 2: Mostly assembled and almost ready for initial glue up. (J.R. Watson
is working on the i550 in the background, left.)

DAY 2: The boat is flipped over and the
copper wires tightened one last time
before gluing the lapstrakes.

DAY 2: Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive made the glue up a dream. So simple,
even third-grader Seth joined in the epoxying fun. He didn't get a drop of epoxy
on himself.

DAY 2: Injecting epoxy for filleting. We simply left gaps at the copper wires,
then removed the wires after the epoxy cured. Filling those gaps later will
be much easier than heating epoxied-in wires for removal.

DAY 3: After the epoxy cured overnight, we flipped the boat again and
epoxied the bulkheads into place with a thick bead of Six10. Easy!

DAY 3: After we laid in the fiberglass cloth with 1-5 Resin/207 Special Clear Hardener,
we dry fit the inwales into place.

DAY 3: A close-up of the lovely CLC puzzle joints.

We still have quite a bit work left on this boat, and will post more on the blog as we get further along. We'll be gluing in the inwales and outwales, the decks and seats, doing some more fiberglassing and of course sanding and painting. We're pretty thrilled with how easily the Sassafras 16 is coming together. CLC makes great boat kits, and they're a breeze to assemble with Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive.

June 25-27, 10 families will join us and CLC at the WoodenBoat Show in Mystic Seaport, CT to build Sassafras 16 canoes of their own.

Maine boatbuilding

Fri, 04 Jun 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Soundings Trade Only magazine has a great write up on progress in Maine boatbuilding.

Career Opportunity

Wed, 05 May 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Gougeon Brothers Inc., the manufacturer of WEST SYSTEM® and PRO SET® Epoxy, has a full-time job opening for a Technical Advisor.

Qualifications
•    10+ years of wooden boat building experience in both traditional and contemporary construction methods.
•    A formal education in wooden boat building with 5+ years of work experience will be considered.
•    Communication skills, both written and verbal, are essential.

Relocation to Bay City, Michigan is required.

Send your resume and cover letter to gmh@gougeon.com or Human Resources, Gougeon Brothers Inc, 100 Patterson Ave, Bay City, MI, 48708.

Sassafras 16 Canoe

Fri, 23 Apr 2010 00:00:00 +0000

The Chesapeake Light Craft Sassafras 16

The Sassafras 16 is a great family canoe from Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC). Its bow and stern are symetrical, and her slightly rounded hull is faster and more responsive than typical plastic or fiberglass canoes. Her hull is 6mm okoume protected with fiberglass, and her bow and stern offer watertight flotation compartments. This build-it-yourself kit includes ash-caned seats, sapele decks, mahogany outwales and an ash thwart. Her 450-pound payload can comfortably accomodate a family of four, and she weighs just 65 pounds.

CLC developed a building method called LapStitch™ that makes this lapstrake canoe buildable even by someone with no previous woodworking experience. There's no strongback, mold, frames or steam bending. Building this beauty is a simple matter of gluing the pre-cut parts together.

Up to 10 lucky families can sign up to build a Sassafras 16 at the WoodenBoat Show in Mystic, CT, June 25-27, 2010. WEST SYSTEM is joining forces with CLC as part of the WoodenBoat Show's Family Build Weekend event. To make it even easier to build, we'l have a lot of Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive on hand. The boat kit, which is regularly $999, will be available at a very special discount price of just $600 for families participating in the event. Not only is CLC offering a generous discount, WEST SYSTEM will provide all of the epoxy and fiberglass for the build at no extra charge to participating families.

To sign up, visit this link at CLC's web site. Update! Within a few days of this post, 10 families signed up to build these great boats. You can still visit the link if you'd like a place on a fast growing waiting list.

Repairing Minor Cracks & Holes

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Springtime is upon us and a lot of folks are finding minor cracks and holes in their fiberglass boats. Of course everyone wants to get these repaired in time for the first warm weekend of boating. Chapter 2 of our Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance manual shows how to make these kinds of repairs, so we're reprinting it here. You can download the entire Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance manual here.

Most of the repair jobs found on fiberglass boats are cosmetic in nature. Cracking or crazing of the gelcoat and scrapes and dings account for much of the repair work being done in boat shops. Permanent repairs to these types of damage can be made with WEST SYSTEM epoxy. When properly applied, an epoxy repair affords an extremely durable, water-resistant repair that offers an excellent base for various finishes. This section addresses the cosmetic repair of minor surface damage and cracking, and panel reinforcement to reduce the cause of cracking.

2.0.1. Assessing damage

It’s easy to account for the scrapes, dings and cracks that result from impacts, but the causes of flex cracking or crazing may not be as obvious. Most cracks or crazing that appear gradually and get worse over time are the result of flexing and are most often found in areas of solid laminate. They often appear near a bulkhead, deck to cabin curve, or window. In addition to the cosmetic surface repair, a thorough repair will often require structural repair or reinforcing to reduce the flexing. The longer a laminate is allowed to flex, or the greater the impact, the deeper the cracks. The deeper a crack extends into the laminate, the more the panel’s strength is reduced. The first step in the repair is to prepare the damaged area and assess the degree of damage:

Figure 2-1
Typical types of cracks from impact or flexing. The pattern of cracking may help to determine their cause.

1. Examine the pattern and location of cracks to determine their cause (Figure 2-1). If the pattern or location indicates flexing, examine the interior side of the panel to determine the best location for additional reinforcing. If the cracks are a result of impact, examine the interior side of the panel to determine whether damage extends through the entire laminate.

2. Remove any surface contaminants such as wax, oil or mold release. Wipe an area at least twice as large as the damaged area with a wax and silicone remover (Dupont Prep-Sol® #3919S), acetone or other appropriate solvent. Dry the area with clean paper towels before the solvent evaporates.

Figure 2-2
Open shallow and minor cracks with a V-shaped
scraper such as a sharpened can opener. Figure 2-3
Grind out an area of many closely spaced or deep
cracks with a disk grinder.

3. Open the cracks for repair. Use a sharpened “V” shaped tool to scrape down to the bottom of the cracks (Figure 2-2). A puncture-type can opener with the tip sharpened to about 90° works well. Beveling the sides of the crack provides more bonding area for the repair. It may be more effective to grind out an entire area of many, closely spaced or deep cracks (Figure 2-3). Scrape or grind as deep as necessary to reach solid, undamaged material. The depth of the crack will determine which course of repair to follow:
a. Shallow cracks or scrapes that affect only the gelcoat layer may be repaired with the gelcoat repair technique described in Section 2.2.1. If necessary, reinforce the laminate to reduce flexing as described in Section 2.3. Some small cracks or chips can be filled with a gelcoat touchup kit.

b. Minor cracks or scrapes that run through the gelcoat into the first chopped strand mat layers of the laminate should be repaired with epoxy using the procedures described below (Section 2.1). Finish with the gelcoat repair technique described later in Section 2.2.1. If necessary, reinforce the laminate to reduce flexing as described in Section 3.

c. Deep cracks extending into woven fabric of the laminate require a structural repair before beginning the cosmetic gelcoat repair. If the crack extends into or through the woven fabric of the skin, follow the procedures in Section 4. If a core has delaminated or is damaged from moisture penetration or impact, follow the appropriate procedure in Section 5.

2.1 Minor crack and abrasion repair

Minor cracks and scrapes that extend to the chopped strand mat layers of laminate may be repaired with WEST SYSTEM epoxy.

Scraped out damage

If cracks were exposed with a “V” shaped scraper, complete the repair as follows after preparing the damaged area as described above:

1. Feather the edges with the scraper or with 100-grit sandpaper and brush the surface free of dust and loose material.

2. Wet out the cracks with a resin/hardener mixture.

3. Fill the cracks with a thickened epoxy mixture using the flat end of a mixing stick or a plastic spreader. Thicken the resin/hardener mixture to the consistency of peanut butter with 404 or 406 filler. Trowel the mixture flush with the surface and remove excess epoxy before it begins to cure. Allow the epoxy to cure thoroughly.

4. Sand the area smooth. Use 100-grit paper to remove any bumps or ridges. Finish by wet-sanding with 220-grit.

5. Finish the area with gelcoat or paint following the procedure in Section 2.2. Reinforce the laminate as necessary to reduce flexing, following the procedure in Section 3.

Ground out damage

If the damage is the result of a scrape or gouge, or cracks were exposed with a grinder, complete the repair as follows:

1. Grind a shallow, 20-to-1 slope around the damaged area. Remove any dust or loose material.

2. Wet out the repair area with a resin/hardener mixture.

3. Fill the void with an epoxy/404 or 406 mixture, thickened to the consistency of peanut butter. Use a plastic spreader to shape the mixture to match the surface contour. Leave the mixture slightly higher than the surrounding area and remove any excess before it begins to cure. Allow the epoxy to cure thoroughly.

4. Sand the area to blend with the surrounding contour. Use 50-grit paper to remove any bumps or ridges and finish with 80-grit paper when you are close to the final shape.

5. Fill any remaining voids (if necessary), repeating Steps 3 and 4.

6. Apply two or three very thin coats of epoxy to seal the surface. Extend each coat slightly beyond the previous one to feather the edge. The area may be warmed with a heat lamp to speed the cure and to help the epoxy flow out. Allow the final coat to cure thoroughly.

7. Wet sand the area with 180-grit paper to prepare for the final finish.

8. Finish the area with paint or the gelcoat finishing procedure beginning with step 4. Reinforce the laminate as necessary to reduce flexing, following the procedure in Section 3.

2.2 Finishing

Although many types of coating systems are compatible with WEST SYSTEM epoxy and provide the necessary UV protection, we recommend polyester gelcoat for small repair areas and linear polyurethane paint for large repairs. Although gelcoat may be used over large areas, it lends itself better to small areas where it’s necessary to color match existing gelcoat and its handling characteristics are more manageable. Linear polyurethane paints give extremely durable finishes and are appropriate for large complete sections like a hull or deck where color matching is not critical. Paint application over a large area is more practical than gelcoat. These finishes are recommended for above the waterline only. Use WEST SYSTEM for all repairs and coating below the waterline, prior to applying bottom paint.

2.2.1 Gelcoat finishes

In answer to questions concerning compatibility and techniques for applying polyester gelcoats over repairs made with WEST SYSTEM® epoxy, we can say epoxy provides an excellent base for polyester gelcoats. The following procedure will assure good adhesion and a well matched repair color. If you have only a shallow crack or scrape that does not extend into the laminate, begin with Step 1. If you have repaired minor cracks or scrapes with epoxy and are ready to proceed with the final gelcoat finish, begin with Step 4. Be sure the epoxy has cured thoroughly. Wash the surface thoroughly to remove all traces of amine blush.

1. Remove any surface contaminants such as wax, oil or mold release. Wipe an area at least twice as large as the damaged area with a wax and silicone remover (Dupont Prep-Sol™ #3919S), acetone or appropriate solvent. Dry the area with clean paper towels before the solvent evaporates.

2. Scrape out the cracks or scratches with a 90° “V” shaped scraper to expose clean gelcoat and increase the bonding area slightly. Do not scrape through the gelcoat.

3. Fill the scraped out voids with gelcoat. Mix a small batch of gelcoat without thinners. Trowel the mixture into the voids, leaving it slightly higher than the surface. Allow the gelcoat mixture to cure thoroughly.

4. Apply tape around the perimeter of the de-waxed area. Mask the area beyond the repair to protect the boat from overspray. If there is a molded bodyline or corner near the repair, you may want to extend the color patch to that point. The same is true for a painted or vinyl stripe.

5. Sand the additional area out to the tape line with 320-grit paper. This will be the total area to be gelcoated.

6. Determine the gelcoat batch size for the size of the repair–approximately 80 square feet per gallon of gelcoat (20 sq ft per qt).

7. Tint the batch of gelcoat to match the color of the boat. If the boat is fairly new and the manufacturer is still in business, you may be able to get gelcoat that will be a very close color match. If this is not an option, you will need to get the gelcoat from a FRP product supplier. Many marine distributors handle the gelcoats from various resin manufacturers. You will also need pigments to tint the base color to obtain a good match. These pigments are generally available from the gelcoat suppliers. Frequently, local repair yards that do fiberglass repairs will sell these products.

There are gelcoat additives (available through most gelcoat suppliers) that, when used properly, make matching a repair easier. These are clear, low-viscosity resins that are not air inhibited. These products are mixed with the pigmented gelcoat in place of a wax solution to provide a tack-free cured surface. They also provide the added benefit of thinning the gelcoat without changing the color of the cured patch the way acetone or styrene can. Gelcoat additives are manufactured by Duratec, and Cook Paint and Varnish Company.

Matching the repair color to the color of the boat can be difficult. Most gelcoat colors change as they cure. As you tint the gelcoat to match, apply a small amount of uncatalyzed material to the sanded area surrounding the repair. Use your gloved finger to spread this into a sample the size of a quarter. Wait a couple of minutes for the solvents to flash off. Any color variation will be evident. If the color match is not acceptable, change the color by adding small amounts of tinting pigments. As you adjust the gelcoat color, think in terms of the basic color hues, i.e.; the color needs to be more red, blue, green or yellow. This will help you identify which of the pigments to use. Use very small amounts of the pigments. When the hue is right, adjust the brightness, darker or lighter by adding black or white. It will take much more white pigment to lighten a mixture than it will a small amount of black pigment to darken it. Apply an uncatalyzed smear with each change of color no matter how small. Leave each of these smears on the surface until you have the color as close to the boat color as you can get it. When you are satisfied with the color match, wipe away all of the test smears with acetone or lacquer thinner.

8. Divide the batch into a 2/3 portion and a 1/3 portion. Our technique for using the patching additives is slightly different than the recommended procedure.

9. Mix the patching additive with equal parts of the 2/3 portion of the matched gelcoat. Catalyze following the recommendations of the gelcoat supplier. Over or under catalyzation may prevent the product from reaching a proper cure.

Apply this mixed gelcoat to the repair with a spray gun. Apply several light coats, feathering each one farther from the repair area. Allow the solvent to flash off between coats. You may need to apply five or six coats to hide the shadow of the repair. Most gelcoats will cure lighter in color if they are too thin. Most manufacturers recommend a total film thickness of 15 to 20 mils. Avoid applying the gelcoat in two or three heavy coats, which may cause solvent entrapment and improper curing. This may also have an effect on the color of the cured repair.

10. Mix a second batch using the 1/3 portion of gelcoat and patching additive. This time use about three parts of patching additive with one part gelcoat.

Spray the first coat of this mixture over the previously sprayed area. Then apply two or three more coats of this mixture over the entire area. Extend each coat farther than the previous one, with the last coat out to the tape line. The semitransparent film of lightly tinted clear patching additive will allow the original gelcoat color to show through around the perimeter of the patch. This will help blend any subtle color change into the original gelcoat.

11. Allow the gelcoat to reach a full cure. Pull the tape and sand the tape line smooth. Start with 320-grit wet or dry paper and work up to 600-grit. Sand the surface of the repair if necessary.

12. Buff the surface with a white, medium-cut rubbing compound. Take your time and do not overheat the surface while buffing. The excess heat can cause a stain that will be very difficult to remove. Finish with a fine compound and wax the area.

There are times when the repair will not match simply because the original gelcoat color has faded. You may need to polish the entire section of the boat to restore the original color.

2.2.2 Paint finishes

Although almost any high-quality marine-grade paint will work, we recommend using one of the two-part polyurethane paint systems above the waterline. (Below the waterline, apply

bottom paint directly over thoroughly cured WEST SYSTEM epoxy.) These paints provide ultraviolet protection, have good gloss retention and a durable, abrasion-resistant surface, provided you follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Light colors, especially white, are recommended over dark colors. White reflects UV and infrared radiation better than other colors and all other things being equal outlasts other colors. Polyurethanes adhere well to fiberglass surfaces bonded with both polyester and epoxy resins. Note: seal all areas of sanded 407 and 410 Microlight fairing compound with epoxy before applying primers or paints.

It is possible to color match small areas, particularly if they are in fairly inconspicuous locations. However, if you have a large repair, or several smaller repairs over a large area, you may find it easier to repaint the entire hull or deck.

Polyurethanes, just like epoxies, are affected by moisture contamination. This means use caution when painting: don’t paint early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Also avoid painting in direct sunlight.

If you’ve chosen to paint, you will probably be painting the entire hull, deck or cabin top. Begin by inspecting the entire surface. Wipe with a silicone and wax remover (such as DuPont Prep-Sol™#3919-S) to eliminate any trace of mold release agents or wax. It may require two or three washings. Thoroughly abrade the surface to be painted by wet-sanding with 180-grit sandpaper, followed by 220-grit. Follow the paint manufacturer’s recommendation for the final grit. Generally, the thinner the paint, the finer the grit of the final sanding. You must remove all glossiness from the surface. Polyurethanes tend to highlight any surface imperfections, rather than hide them. Check for nicks, dings or gouges and repair them as described previously.

After all repairs have been made, wash the entire painting surface with the paint manufacturer’s recommended solvent. Follow the manufacturer’s mixing and application instructions to the letter. It’s far better to apply two or three thin coats than one thick coat.

Wooden Countertops

Wed, 24 Mar 2010 00:00:00 +0000

The February/March 2010 issue of Fine Homebuilding magazine features a great article by Dan Vos with step-by-step instructions for building beautiful, durable wooden countertops with WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy. It has everything you need to know from selecting the wood to final installation.

Fine Homebuilding generously allowed us to share the PDF of the entire 6-page article here through June 23, 2010.

Download a PDF of the complete article. (Link removed 6-23-10 per our agreement with Fine Homebuilding. Visit here to preview the article at Fine Homebuilding's site.)

Stephens, Waring & White

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Stephens, Waring & White Yacht Design has an excellent blog post about their W-37 daysailer design, now being built by Brooklin Boat Yard in Brooklin, Maine.

We love to see our customers designing and building cool boats.

Getting the most out of G/flex

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Are you the kind of person who just can’t get enough of a good thing? Looking for a better way to squeeze out that last little bit of G/flex adhesive from your tube rather than resorting to pliers, a vise or maybe even Grandma's rolling pin? Maybe you’d like to get a fatter bead of adhesive or your tube is a bit clogged. Boy do we have the some easy and inexpensive tricks for you!

Issue: I love your G/flex adhesive! Do you have any nifty tips on getting the last little bit of adhesive out of the tube with ease?

Ms. Julie's Tip: Not long ago this very subject was the topic of discussion that came up between J.R. Watson and me. Squeezing in a bit of shopping on my lunch, it just so happened that I found myself face-to-face with a display of tooth paste squeezers. On my way back to work I felt as though I had just solved all the world’s problems. Perfect! Or so I thought. Although the concept was good, the little tooth paste squeezer just didn’t stand a chance next to the rigid metal G/flex tube. However, it did give the innovative J.R. Watson an idea. Using very little time and effort, we whipped up this very cool gadget making it a snap to squeeze out the last drop of adhesive.

Here's what you’ll need:

½” diameter PVC pipe

2 PVC caps to fit the ½” pipe

What you’ll need to do:

You will obviously need to make two, one for the resin tube and one for the harder. But for simplicity's sake we'll just show one tube being created.
Take the ½” diameter pipe and cut it down to approximately 7” in length. The additional length creates an easy to grip handle. So for you extra-large handed men, petite handed women or vise/versa, cut to length accordingly.

Cut horizontally 4" into the center
of the tube.

Insert the crimped end of the tube
through both horizontal cuts.

For added ‘G/flex’ appeal add a PVC cap.

Take hold of the handle and you
are now ready to roll.

Issue: I’d like a bit more adhesive to squeeze out of my G/flex tube, got any tips? By the way, your stuff ROCKS!

Ms. Julie's Tip: Simply poke the sharpened end of a pencil into the open tip, applying enough pressure to unclog and increase the diameter of the hole. It’s cheap, easy and works like a charm. The amount of adhesive that comes out of the tube afterward can double in volume, depending on how far the pencil is inserted.

…and Mom said that cheap and easy was a bad thing!

So stands the mighty oak

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +0000

The Druids waved their golden knives
and danced around the Oak
when they had sacrificed a man;
but though the learned search and scan
no single modern person can
entirely see the joke.
But though they cut the throats of men
they cut not down the tree,
and from the blood the saplings spring
of oak-woods yet to be ...

from ‘The Song of the Oak’
G.K. Chesterton
People have been building boats using White Oak for centuries, sacrificing blood, sweat and tears to engineer wonderful and enduring vessels of all shapes and sizes.

Oak was often used because of its desirable properties and behavior. It is dense, strong, and rot resistant. In the days before glues and adhesives, oak planking was used because it would swell considerably which resulted in tight and sound hulls, meaning little leaking and dry interiors. Of course, time marches inexorably forward and eventually builders began using adhesives to augment or, in some cases, replace mechanical fasteners.

We’ve been debating the issue of gluing oak ever since.

There are many who argue that adhesives have little use and/or no place in wooden boats. Sometimes that statement is qualified to apply only to “traditional” wooden boat construction. We have over 40 years of experience, data, and history to support our argument to the contrary and I will share some recent test data here. So get ready people—it’s GBI as Mythbusters.

These days White Oak is used more for keel timbers and frames, less so as planking. Regardless of the application, adhesion, while certainly important, is only part of the equation necessary to success. Still, it’s a good place to start.

When we say adhesion what we are referring to is tensile adhesion measured with a PATTI instrument according to ASTM D-4541. There are no peel or shear forces involved.
Adhesive Surface prep Avg. adhesion (psi)
105/206 none 1625
105/206 80-grit hand sanding 1291
105/206 60-grit orbital + 60-grit hand sanding 1797
105/206 50/50 blend PEG*/water - no sanding 1774
*polyethylene glycol

Adhesive Surface prep Avg. adhesion (psi)
G/flex 650
80-grit hand sanding
1935
G/flex 655 80-grit hand sanding 1780
G/flex 655 wiped twice with alcohol pad*
2212
*70% isopropyl alcohol in water

What we learn from this data is surface prep can make a difference in adhesion as well as choice of epoxy. While G/flex yields significantly better values, standard WEST SYSTEM® 105 Resin/206 Slow Hardener did pretty well without any surface prep at all, which does lend some support to our stated position that epoxy can bond White Oak. But as I said, this is only one part of the whole story.

ASTM D905 Short Block Shear Test
To get a more complete understanding of adhesion to White Oak we recently completed short block shear testing according to ASTM D-905. We had two goals: first, to test adhesion to White Oak under a shear load and second, to collect some more data on our new Six-10® Thickened Epoxy Adhesive.

All the specimens in this sample population were hand sanded with 80-grit followed by a thorough wipe with alcohol pads. The load is applied to the sample in the direction of the grain. The results are as follows:

Adhesive Avg. shear strength (psi)
105/206 2866
G/flex 650 2968
Six-10 2834

White Oak test specimens ready to take their turn on the
test machine

Every broken sample in the test population, regardless of
which of our epoxy systems was used, resulted in 100%
wood failure. But that doesn’t mean all things are equal.
What are the practical implications we can assign to the observed results? Given that all the samples received the same prep, all of them resulted in 100% wood failure and all the values are very close, it is fair to say the glue is stronger than the shear strength of the oak. The slightly higher values achieved with G/flex can be explained by noting the extent of the wood failure. Because of the tough flexibility of G/flex, more wood got involved in resisting the applied shear force and so the value was somewhat higher.

The results of testing we did on another dense wood from South America, Jotoba, support this conclusion. The White Oak we tested had a density of 10.461 g/in3 = 39.9 lbs/ft3 while the Jotoba had a density of 15.80 g/in3 = 60.2 lbs/ft3 which is 33.7% more dense than the oak. If density plays a role in adhesion we should be able to see that here. First let’s looks at the results:

Adhesive Avg. shear strength (psi)
105/206 3,319
G/flex 650
4,031
Six-10 4,088
Looking at the photos of the broken samples we see very similar results. Every sample has 100% wood failure and the average shear strength values are consistently similar. Again, it’s fair to say that the glue is stronger than the shear strength of the Jotoba and that the higher values with the Jotoba reflect the increased density and thus the increased shear strength over the oak samples.What we learn from this test data is that, contrary to the opinions of the naysayers, with the proper surface prep White Oak is quite bondable. It’s instructive to understand what these numbers really mean and how they might apply to something real, like a boat. For tensile adhesion picture this: you could lift a block of aluminum weighing just under a ton by gluing a piece of White Oak to it.
An interesting point to make in that regard is the use of a wipe with an alcohol pad, a practice I am following more and more. Our current theory as to why this works is that the alcohol has some water in it and the wipe raises and opens the grain which allows for better penetration and therefore involves an increased amount of wood surface to better share the load. Regardless of the mechanism the data doesn’t lie: that surface prep works well.

Still not fully convinced? Good. Neither am I. As encouraging as this data is, I can’t help wondering if it accurately describes what we can expect in the real world. These samples were made in the lab under ideal conditions of moisture content, humidity, temperature, etc. How often are boats built that way? Good question. To try to answer it we are conducting another series of tests where the samples will be tortured in our environmental huts to really get that oak moving.

Wood-Epoxy Demystifed

Thu, 11 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +0000

You can tell a book's importance and value by where you find it. The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction is no exception. Tattered, stained copies are found in the shops of virtually every boatbuilder or repairer worth his salt. It's found in libraries and reference rooms, and within easy reach of a legion of amateur boatbuilders and repairers. My own copies, a 23-year-old, dog-eared fourth edition, and the newly released fifth edition, are tucked in with my prized Oxford Companion to Ships and Seas, Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual, and Chapman's Piloting, Seamanship & Small Boat Handling.

Back in the late 1980s, when I was kicking around Bay City, Michigan, working for the Gougeon Brothers, cooking up ways to sell more epoxy to more folks, the fourth edition had already sold nearly 40,000 copies. With release of the hardbound 5th edition, more than 100,000 are now in print—a testament to the value of the information found between its covers.

This book is all about building with wood and epoxy. Within its 406 heavily illustrated pages, the reader will find everything from the most fundamental basics of epoxy use, to literate discussions of structural mechanics, to step-by-step instruction on lofting and building your boat—be it a pond-perfect canoe or a globe-girding voyager.

Of course, a lot has happened in boatbuilding and adhesive chemistry in the 25 years since the fourth edition was printed. The Gougeon Brothers have learned a great deal—much of it from their own construction projects—and even more by working closely with their WEST SYSTEM epoxy customers. What sets this book apart is the author's ongoing experience and research in wood/epoxy and research in wood/epoxy construction techniques.

Today's products and technology benefit from more than a decade of NASA-funded research done by the Gougeon Brothers in the use of wood/epoxy construction of high-performance wind-turbine blades in the 1970s and 1980s. Thousands of hours of research resulted in production contracts with early wind-turbine pioneers General Electric, Westinghouse, and Bendix. By the time the Gougeon Brothers closed down their wind-turbine manufacturing facility in the early 1990s, the company had produced more than 4,300 wood/epoxy blades.

This impressive combination of laboratory research, mechanical testing and evaluation, and real-world manufacturing experience has laid down an unmatched bedrock of wood/epoxy knowledge and experience, all of it easily accessed within the pages of this book.

The Gougeon editorial team has successfully reorganized the new edition into six sections: Fundamentals of Wood/Epoxy Construction, Getting Started, Core Boatbuilding Techniques, First Production Steps, Hull Construction Methods, and Later Production Steps.

The first section makes the case for wood's use as a structural material in combination with epoxy. It's interesting reading, especially the performance comparisons with other common boatbuilding and repair materials. From there, Getting Started presents five chapters covering safety, tools, materials and estimating, and wood selection—good and useful information for hobbyists and professionals alike.

When you arrive at the section entitled Core Boatbuilding Techniques you hit the mother lode, a section worth the cost of the book by itself. These five chapters, in one fell swoop, spell out several decades' worth of hard-won construction techniques, short-cuts, and builders' secrets. From laminating, to glassing, to hardware bonding, this section will be as valuable to the person doing occasional epoxy repairs as it will be to someone building a 60-footer.

From this point on, the book discusses, in amazingly simple and easily understood terms, virtually every aspect of epoxy boat construction, including strip plank, cold-moldings, stringer-frame, compounded plywood construction, and more. There's detail on interior and deck construction, finishing, systems, and teak veneer decking. Not only is there a wealth of written information, but also every page is complemented with detailed photographs and handsome illustrations.

One of the highlights of the new edition for me was the photo gallery—gorgeous color photos of Gougeon-influenced boats and products spanning decades. It's an amazing collection of 66 images that represents the influence of the Gougeon Brothers and this book over the years. It's a who's-who gallery illustrating boats with names like Liberty, Tenacious, Antonisa, Rogue Wave, Miss Bud, Scheherezade, Whitehawk, and Adagio, not a few of which were built here in Maine.

It's safe to say that there are few books today that have helped as many people fulfill their dreams of building boats as The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction.

Ted Hugger was an employee of Gougeon Brothers, Inc. in the late 1980s. He now owns and operates Hugger Communications, LLC in Portland, Maine. Ted's review originally appeared in the February/March 2010 issue of Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors magazine. This piece was published at the WEST SYSTEM blog with permission of both Ted Hugger and Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors.

Treading lightly with Zogo

Wed, 03 Feb 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Zogo underway.    Photo by Billy Black

The 29’ hybrid launch Zogo has graceful, classic proportions and modern aesthetic appeal. The boat was designed by Stephens, Waring & White Yacht Design of Brooklin, Maine around a 75hp integrated diesel/electric propulsion engine from European manufacture Steyr-Motors. Zogo’s narrow beam and light displacement allow for this relatively small engine to push her to a maximum speed of about 14 knots. She burns only 1.5 gallons of fuel per hour at a cruising speed of 10.5 knots.
Under electric power, Zogo draws a 48 volt DC current from eight batteries which will take her to a maximum 7 knots in virtual silence. The cockpit is sheltered by a lightweight carbon fiber canopy which also provides a mounting platform for a sizeable array of solar panels to help recharge the battery bank.

Zogo's bow. Photo by Billy Black
WEST SYSTEM 105/205, G/flex and G/5 epoxies, as well another venerable Gougeon epoxy, PRO-SET, were all used in the boat's construction. Her cedar strip plank hull was vacuum bagged and sheathed with unidirectional carbon fiber. She will be proudly exhibited at the Maine Boat Builders’ Show in March, 2010 by her builder, French & Webb of Belfast, Maine.
Zogo may be only the tip of the iceberg in high-efficiency, low-impact power boating. The technology can be applied to both pleasure-boating and commercial watercraft. Expect Stephens, Waring & White plan to continue leading the way in the development and promotion of greener watercraft.

PVC Pool Pump Repair

Thu, 21 Jan 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Ron Shantos's pool pump had been installed incorrectly. The PVC was slightly misaligned, so that the threading was not exact. This resulted in very slight water seepage around that connection when the pump runs. This always bothered him. Properly repairing the leak/seepage would require replacing the PVC pipe and several expensive filters and valves. He would have to cut these product out and replace them with new.

He attempted to seal the connecton with a PVC adhesive and later with a synthetic rubber sealant but neither of these worked. He also tried to fix it with a couple of other well-known marine adhesives, but could not get them to bond to the PVC and pump plastics or withstand the output pump pressure of about 25 lbs.

He purchased G/flex 655, followed the instructions, and also relied on the support and coaching of one of our technical advisors, Bruce Niederer. His pool equipment room is 50 degrees F, so to facilate curing Ron positioned a couple of 100-watt bulbs about 6 inches away from the repair. After 24 hours he tested the repair. There was no longer any water seepage at the connection.

G/flex can be used in repairing plastic or PVC swimming pool equipment.

Six10's inner workings

Tue, 15 Dec 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Lately, a few concerned folks have taken the time to call our tech staff to ask why the plunger in their cartridge of Six10® Thickened Epoxy Adhesive stops about halfway up from the end. Quite understandably, some wanted to knowwhy their Six10 cartridge was only "half-full" and wondered if we'd shorted them on epoxy. Others wanted to know (also quite understandibly) why their cartridge "broke" at the halfway point and wondered if they could they get "the rest of the epoxy" out of it.

The answer to both inquires is no. When the plunger stops at the halfway point, the cartridge is emptied of the entire 190 ml of Six10 epoxy.

Six10 comes in a convenient 2:1 volumetric ratio cartridge. The inner workings of the cartridge keep the resin and hardener separate until they are forced into the static mixer. The cartridge is designed so that both chambers are emptied completely when the plunger has travelled half the length of the cartridge.

The inner workings of the Six10 cartridge. Full (top) and nearing empty (bottom).

When the plunger stops near the midway point, the entire 190 ml of Six10 resin and hardener have been dispensed. The cartridge is not broken or half empty; it's functioning precisely the way it was designed to, delivering a properly metered blend of epoxy resin and hardener.

Stocking Stuffers

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Has Santa been stuffing your stockings with the same old tired candycanes, aftershave and soap-on-a-rope? Drop him a hint this year; link him to these WEST SYSTEM epoxy products that are small on size, but big on adhesion and handy for all kinds of boat construction and repair needs. They're great for repairs large and small around the house, too.

WEST SYSTEM Six10® Thickened Epoxy Adhesive is packaged in a specially designed, self-metering cartridge that separates the resin and hardener for long-term storage, even after it's been opened. Just screw on the static mixing wand, pop the cartridge into any standard caulking gun and squirt out a full mixed, pre-thickened, structural epoxy. Anywhere between one and four Six10 cartridges would fit easily into your average Christmas stocking. If you use only small amounts of epoxy, ask Santa to drop off a few extra static mixing wands for you.

WEST SYSTEM G/flex is available in two convenient kits, either of which could be slipped into your stocking. This 1:1 mix ratio, marine grade epoxy is tough, flexible and versatile. G/flex 650 is a liquid epoxy while G/flex 655 is pre-thickened epoxy paste. These epoxies bond to wet and damp surfaces. They'll bond resinous, exotic and difficult-to-bond woods including teak and oak. G/flex is great for repairing alumimum boats. It bonds to HDPE and ABS plastics, making it great for fixing canoes, kayaks and toys.

You can modify G/flex 650 with WEST SYSTEM fillers, or add blended G/flex to other WEST SYSTEM epoxies to increase their toughness and flexibility. G/flex makes structural bonds that absorb the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock and vibration.


WEST SYSTEM Handy Packs and Maxi Packs are repair kits that contain everything you need to complete small repairs around the boat, shop or home.

The Handy Repair Pack contains two WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin/205 Hardener packets, and enough high-density filler to complete a variety of coating and bonding operations. Also included are a 2" x 10" piece of 9 oz fiberglass tape (useful for patching, reinforcing or abrasion resistance), an application brush, mixing stick, pipe cleaner, two cleaning pads and complete instructions. The components can be mixed in the disposable package.

The Maxi Repair Pack contains six 105 Resin/205 Hardener packets, fairing filler, high-density adhesive filler, a 4" x 12" 9 oz fiberglass tape, two application brushes, one syringe, two pipe cleaners, four mixing sticks, one pair of disposable gloves, four cleaning pads, mixing cups and illustrated instructions.


G/5 Five Five Minute Adhesive is a 2-part, 1:1 ratio resin/hardener system for quick repairs, tooling and general bonding. Use it for spot applications to hold parts in position while standard epoxy bonds cure. Bonds to wood, fiberglass and metal. Not recommended for long-term bonds subject to high loads or moisture. Cures in 3-5 minutes. Comes in two 16 fl oz bottles or two 4 fl oz bottles.

Okay, we'll admit it: G/5 doesn't smell so great, but it's faster than Blitzen, Donder or Cupid.
Santa can find all of these great glues at a the WEST SYSTEM Dealer nearest you.

Glue U, The School You Shouldn't Skip

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Technical Director Jeff C. Wright explains vacuum bagging; Tech Advisor Randy Zajac demonstrates.
Each year the tech advisors at WEST SYSTEM put on a school that has affectionately come to be known as “Glue U.” It is a two day professional level seminar/workshop on boat repair and composite technology. Over the years I have spoken to hundreds of people who have attended this school and I can say with complete confidence that I have never met anyone who was disappointed. Most who have attended schools put on by other suppliers rank “Glue U” amongst the best classes they have ever experienced. The classes take place in the Gougeon Brothers Research and Development workshop at our Bay City, Michigan plant. There will be two sessions: February 22-23 and February 25-26, 2010. The cost of the class is just $495 and includes 14 hours of instruction, including hands-on experience using WEST SYSTEM for boat maintenance and repair. The price also includes your hotel accommodations and all meals. All you have to do is get here.

Here’s the agenda:

Day One

Welcome – introduction, overview and pre assessment

Basic Techniques – what epoxy is and how to use it, hands-on project

Composite Technology – discuss theory and practice, hands-on project, vacuum bagging demo

Composite Repair – discussion and demo of boat repair techniques and applications

Fairing – applications and techniques demo

Gel coat – cosmetic repairs over epoxy

Day Two

Gel coat blisters – repair techniques and barrier coating

Advanced composites

Carbon/Kevlar repairs, SMC/Roto-molded repairs

Tour of facility

Special purpose epoxies – mixing and application techniques

Wood basics – wooden boat repairs and wood in fiberglass boats

Stains and coatings – tools and techniques

Trimming composites

Hardware removal – methods for removing epoxy-bonded fasteners

Testing concepts – practical methods for in-yard testing

Question and answer

This course is reserved for professionals only. Class sizes are limited and openings fill quickly. If you have questions or would like to register, call Julie, 866-937-8797, Ext. 1212.

Fix-It Anarchy

Wed, 25 Nov 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Sailing Anarchy brings sailing minds together from all over the world, giving the community a way to share and debate all aspects of sailing and beyond. When their editor approached us about sponsoring a Sailing Anarchy forum dedicated to building, fixing and restoring boats, we responded with a resounding “Hell yeah!”

Sailing Anarchy regulars Epoxymoron and Vegas are Technical Advisors for WEST SYSTEM and will chime in on epoxy composite discussions at the forums. We know epoxy, wood and composite construction and as active anarchists, we will be part of the forum banter. But this is not our forum to preach the gospel of epoxy; this is your forum. So for all you riggers, glassers, painters, sparkers, sailmakers, designers and builders out there we humbly present Fix It Anarchy brought to you by WEST SYSTEM epoxy.

Join the discussions today at the Fix It Anarchy forum.

Trumpy Yachts to build classic yacht tenders

Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Trumpy's 20' tenders come in three great styles: the Gentleman's Racer, the Center Console
and the Capri.

NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND (USA) - The classic design and quality craftsmanship of a Trumpy® yacht is now available in three models of Trumpy Tenders.

Trumpy, in collaboration with Ynot Yachts and Vicem Yachts, has created the Gentleman's Racer, the Center Console and the Capri. The 20' tenders, offered as standard equipment on new Trumpys over 100 feet, are now available to all. Built by Vicem to the Trumpy design, these little yachts will delight all who own them.

"From leather upholstery to custom hardware, the Trumpy Tender is everything a Trumpy is famous for — great lines, wonderful craftsmanship and state of the art cold molded materials and West System epoxy," said Johan Trumpy.

The base price for any of the three models of Trumpy Tenders is US $135,000 with a Yanmar 160 diesel standard. An optional custom trailer is US $4,200. First deliveries are expected in March 2010. Trumpy plans to have a display model at the 2010 Miami International Boat Show in February.

Trumpy Tenders General Specifications:

LOD - 20'-0" / 6.1 meters

LOA - 20'-0" / 6.1 meters

LWL - 19'-0" /5.753 meters

Beam - 6'-6" / 2.03 meters

Draft, hull - 1'-6" / 0.45 meters

Displacement - 1,400 lbs. / 636 kg

Standard power - YANMAR 160HP

Cruise speed - 25 mph / 22 knots

Top speed - 30 mph / 26.5 knots.

Fuel capacity - 75 USG / 275 liters

For more information about the new Trumpy Tenders, visit www.trumpyyachts.net or email jockwest@trumpyyachts.net.

Video: Plastic Kayak Torture

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 +0000

As promised, the Kayak Chainsaw Massacre video. See how G/flex epoxy repairs plastic and stands up to some intense, real-world torture tactics.


Figure 2-2 Open shallow and minor cracks with a V-shaped scraper such as a sharpened can opener.	Figure 2-3 Grind out an area of many closely spaced or deep cracks with a disk grinder.

Cut horizontally 4" into the center of the tube.
Insert the crimped end of the tube through both horizontal cuts.
For added ‘G/flex’ appeal add a PVC cap.
Take hold of the handle and you are now ready to roll.

Adhesive	Surface prep	Avg. adhesion (psi)
105/206	none	1625
105/206	80-grit hand sanding	1291
105/206	60-grit orbital + 60-grit hand sanding	1797
105/206	50/50 blend PEG*/water - no sanding	1774
*polyethylene glycol

Adhesive	Avg. shear strength (psi)
105/206	2866
G/flex 650	2968
Six-10	2834


WEST SYSTEM G/flex is available in two convenient kits, either of which could be slipped into your stocking. This 1:1 mix ratio, marine grade epoxy is tough, flexible and versatile. G/flex 650 is a liquid epoxy while G/flex 655 is pre-thickened epoxy paste. These epoxies bond to wet and damp surfaces. They'll bond resinous, exotic and difficult-to-bond woods including teak and oak. G/flex is great for repairing alumimum boats. It bonds to HDPE and ABS plastics, making it great for fixing canoes, kayaks and toys. You can modify G/flex 650 with WEST SYSTEM fillers, or add blended G/flex to other WEST SYSTEM epoxies to increase their toughness and flexibility. G/flex makes structural bonds that absorb the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock and vibration.